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All-in-One Bunny Care Guide

Considering a pet rabbit?  Researching bunny care can be overwhelming, so I've compiled a single page of basic bunny care information to help guide you.  Bookmark it!  When you're ready for more in-depth rabbit care, continue browsing our bunny info pages.  I encourage you to consult your veterinarian about caring for a rabbit, but these are the methods that have worked for me with my Holland lop rabbits.  Check out our Amazon Store for our favorite bunny products!

Hop to a bunny care topic!

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Favorite Bunny Products!

Shop our AMAZON STORE for more of our favorite bunny products!
Many of the links on this page are affiliate links to products I use and recommend.
As an Amazon associate, I earn a small amount of revenue from qualifying purchases, which helps to maintain my website.  Thank you for your support!
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Bunny Food  **IMPORTANT INFO!**
Sherwood is the best of the best when it comes to rabbit food, and it's what we've used for years.  Sherwood Rabbit Food is worth the extra expense since it doesn’t contain SOY, molasses, or grain that can be difficult for your bunny to digest.  Your bunny's urine will SMELL BETTER due to balanced protein in the feed.  Read Sherwood's website to see the research behind their formulas.  Food can be purchased from the company or on Amazon. 
 
Switching a rabbit to Sherwood food is like making a child eat spinach instead of mac 'n cheese, but luckily, bunnies purchased from us are already used to Sherwood!  If you change to another brand, slowly transition over a week or two.  It will likely be difficult to switch back to Sherwood, but Dr. David Sherwood suggested a tip for transitioning to Sherwood pellets: slowly reduce the amount of your current pellets until your bunny is eating all or mostly hay (this only works for rabbits who eat hay well).  Then, when you offer Sherwood pellets, it will seem like a treat, and your bunny should accept the new pellets.

SHERWOOD RABBIT PELLET OPTIONS:
Baby Pellet: For bunnies under 12 weeks (and nursing does), feed free-choice, contains alfalfa.
Free Choice Timothy Pellet (blue bag): Perfect for poor hay eaters, feed free-choice, no alfalfa. *NEW
Free Choice Timothy/Alfalfa Pellet (blue bag): Perfect for poor hay eaters, fed free-choice, contains alfalfa.
Measured Timothy Pellet (green bag): Best for good hay eaters, fed in measured amounts, no alfalfa.  *NEW
Measured Timothy/Alfalfa Pellet (red bag): Best for good hay eaters, fed in measured amounts, contains alfalfa.
Sherwood Rabbit Pellets
Sherwood Comparison & New Formulas
I have used the Sherwood baby rabbit food and their free-choice blue bag timothy/alfalfa pellets with my bunnies for years with good results.  Although I did try the measured timothy pellet (green bag), I felt that my rabbits didn't get enough to eat unless I fed too close to the maximum daily allowance, and I did have some issues of stasis that could be a result of feeding too many of these concentrated pellets.  For this reason, I plan to stick with the free-choice blue bag Sherwood options (the new alfalfa-free formula is my suggestion since the alfalfa/timothy blend will eventually be discontinued), and these contain hay so are also great for rabbits who don't eat enough hay on their own.   
If you do feed a measured pellet, weigh your rabbit and DO NOT exceed the recommended daily amount!
Two other brands of rabbit feed that you may wish to consider are Modesto Milling's Organic Rabbit Pellets as well as Oxbow's Garden Select adult rabbit food or Oxbow Organic.  These don't contain soy or molasses but do have grain ingredients (unlike Sherwood).  Modesto is sold on Amazon in 10lb and 25lb bags, but it can be crumbly.  Since Oxbow has many varieties, make sure it's the Garden Select or Organic rabbit food and not one of their other formulas that contains soy. 
We also use Sherwood's Digestive Support tablets when the bunnies are molting and ingesting extra fur and if they aren't eating well or have mushy poo.  You may want to keep Sherwood's Appetite Restore and Sherwood's Recovery food on hand in case your bunny ever gets sick or isn't eating well.  See product photos and links below.  If not available on Amazon, you can purchase through Sherwood's Website.  
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What do I do if my bunny stops eating?
GI Stasis is not a disease but is when your bunny's digestive system slows down or stops.  Your bunny is in pain and won't eat or poop.  It happens quickly and can be fatal. 
Are you prepared to save your bunny's life?  Watch our video to learn all about GI Stasis and how to react.
Once recovered, the cause of your bunny's stasis should be examined.  Lack of fiber, too many treats, stress, dehydration, underlying illness, and dental issues are potential factors.
*UPDATE: Sherwood's SARX Rescue is now called Appetite Restore!
*Make sure to keep your bunny warm if in stasis.  Use a hot water bottle or heating pad.
**Ask your veterinarian about keeping a bottle of Metacam on hand if stasis occurs and you cannot get to the vet quickly.  Metacam is a pain reliever and anti-inflammatory that can provide relief for your bunny in the meantime.
Check out our Rabbit Health Page for more information on stasis, bloat, and other rabbit illnesses.
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What treats can my bunny eat?
Until your bunny is closer to 5/6 months, I suggest NO treats other than a thumb-sized piece of a leafy green or a few raw oats daily.
ALWAYS begin slowly and stop if your rabbit has mushy poop after eating a treat.  Many rabbits have quite sensitive digestive systems. 
Veggies (feed in AM so bunny eats more hay all night):
  • Basil, parsley, cilantro, dill
  • Leaf lettuces, fresh spinach, kale, collard greens
  • Dandelions & plantain herb (found in untreated lawns)
  • Carrot (SMALL chunk only, fed sparingly!)
  • Pumpkin, squash, zucchini, bell peppers (sparingly)
  • AVOID gassy veggies (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower)
Fruits: (small chunk or slice a few times per week)
  • Apple slice, no seeds
  • Banana/Pear chunk
  • Strawberry (leaves too!)
  • Blueberry/Blackberry/Raspberry
  • Plum/Peach slice, pit removed
  • Fresh cherry, pit removed
Greens, Veggies, & Fruits for Bunnies
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Hay
We use 2nd or 3rd cutting fresh organic timothy hay/orchard grass w/ clover purchased from a local farm, our farm, Small Pet Select, or Farmer Dave's Pet Supply.  Small Pet Select has a larger selection than Farmer Dave's, and most bunnies love the 3rd cutting timothy hay that is very soft, supple, and green.

Bunnies need hay to keep their digestive systems moving and to keep their ever-growing teeth trimmed.  Timothy hay or orchard grass are ideal (NO MOSTLY ALFALFA HAY!), but make sure the hay is not moldy…most bagged pet store hays are not fresh.  Unless you have a local farm with fresh pesticide-free hay, then ordering online is your best bet.  Buying in bulk is fine as long as you keep the hay dry and ventilated.

If you can't find fresh hay locally, there are several websites offering high quality hay: Small Pet Select and Farmer Dave's (also found on Amazon) are our favorites.  If you must choose between expensive feed or hay, get the good Sherwood pellets and find the greenest local timothy hay or orchard grass you can source, usually around $5-10 a bale from a farmer.  Be aware that bunnies can be picky about hay, and overly grassy, bleached hay from a farmer may not be palatable to your bunny.  All of the hay I've ever ordered from Small Pet Select or Farmer Dave's has been green and accepted by my bunnies.  Confused?  Watch our YouTube video on comparing timothy hay types for bunnies:
Small Pet Select
SAVE 15% OFF your first Small Pet Select order with coupon!
**UPDATE - Our new favorite hay is the Small Pet Select 2nd cutting timothy hay.
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Standlee hay is another option to consider.
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Choosing a Rabbit Enclosure:

PictureExercise pen attached to dog kennel enclosure. (Customer photo by Gina W.)
No matter one's opinion on whether a rabbit should be housed in a habitat, it is essential to have an enclosure of some sort to keep your bunny safe when not supervised.  Most ideal is an exercise pen (or a couple attached together), but many people have success with a large dog kennel with a pen or small room for the bunny to roam for exercise.  If you prefer a cage style enclosure, there are several nice examples below, depending upon your available space and desired setup.
For those with carpeting to protect, vinyl or foam mats work nicely underneath an exercise pen.  Check out our Rabbit Room Tours page for more ideas.
Above are some nice rabbit cage options found online.  All have solid floors (or are easily adaptable to a solid floor). 
Fill a litter box with rabbit-appropriate litter and vacuum/sweep the solid cage floor daily. 
Bunny Carrier Example
Doug B. made his own cage out of wire cube panels and zip ties!
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Barbara made this amazing chewable bunny space!
A simple metal exercise pen is an effective, inexpensive housing option for an indoor bunny, and as a bonus, the pen can be used for outdoor playtime too.  The gold zinc finish is more durable than the powder coated black metal, and I have had no issues with my gold exercise pens that are now several years old and remain outside year-long.  The black ones have rusted, and the paint is oxidized.  Placing the pen on an easy-to-clean surface such as vinyl, tile, or foam mats is a good idea, but make sure to provide some washable rugs so the bunny doesn't slip and slide all over.  A 30" tall pen should be sufficient for preventing your bunny from hopping out, but 36" is a safer option if you have objects near the perimeter that the bunny could use as a stool to hop out.
 
Bunnies CAN be housed outdoors in a hutch with wind/sun protection or indoors (garage or house) in a wire cage, though wire can hurt their feet over time, and outdoor bunnies don't have the opportunity to bond with family members like an indoor bunny.  Indoors is also safer and an all-around more ideal situation.  Bunnies CAN be potty trained, but it will take perseverance on your part and an understanding that you’ll still find dry “bunny pellets” here and there.  Neutering/spaying should help with litter training too. 

As for cage size, 30x24" is probably the smallest you should buy for a Holland lop rabbit, but only if it will get daily exercise.  An exercise pen or large dog crate are really the most economical and spacious options for a rabbit enclosure.
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37" Homey Pet Enclosure (w/ tray on inside & custom shelf)
The Homey Pet habitat has a removable tray that can be placed on top of the wire floor so that your bunny can be litter trained on a solid floor, or you can add vinyl on top of the wire floor with a few screws/washers/nuts to secure it to the floor. 
The above picture shows a shelf that does not come with the cage, but you certainly can make one (or several) out of wood.  The Homey Pet cage is low enough for your bunny to hop in and out..  Amazon sells several sizes of Homey Pet cages, including a 43" Homey Pet 2-Door Cage perfect for adding your own interior shelves or mezzanine. 
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Hannah E. made this amazing bunny cage!
DIY C&C Grid Enclosure
C&C grid enclosures are made of 14x14" wire cubes built into whatever configuration you desire.  The wire cubes can be purchased from Amazon, and you can find tons of design ideas on Pinterest.  If you don't want to craft floors out of wood as you see pictured, try lining the wire cube flooring with carpet squares, fleece fabric or mats, blankets, or foam puzzle mats.
Our KW Bunny Villa Habitats:
These are what our bunnies are housed in.  The vinyl flooring is an optional upgrade but worth it for ease of cleaning.  While KW Cages makes superb Bunny Villa cages, their customer service is slow and leaves much to be desired.  Still, it's an excellent cage to consider and is available as a single, double, or triple level.
Bunny Villas are available in multiple configurations.  Double or triple-story are our favorites. 
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*Litter Box * Litter * Litter Training*
PictureWare JUMBO Scatterless
Yes, rabbits CAN be litter trained!  BUT, understand that you will always be dealing with at least some rogue poo balls scattered about, though spaying/neutering definitely HELPS with more complete litter training.  Start by keeping your bunny in a small area at first with at least one litter box.  Place a shallow layer of absorbent litter in the bottom of the box and your bunny's hay in or above the litter box.  Wipe up urine messes and place the soiled tissue into the litter box to help your bunny learn where to pee.  Please see the above rabbit litter training YouTube video for an in-depth look at rabbit litter box types and tips for litter training your bunny!
*Suggested litter training products can be viewed in our Amazon Store:

Ware Scatterless JUMBO Lock-N-Litter corner pan litter box
If you plan to potty train your bunny and have a wire cage, this pan locks on to the sides.  An alternative is a deep cat litter box, but your bunny will dig in the litter without the wire grate on top - not a huge deal, it just depends on your preference.  We fill ours with a thin layer of Yesterday’s News, compressed wood pellets, or Carefresh Natural and clean the box daily.  If you have multiple boxes, you can likely clean just one per day without much odor buildup.

The Ware Jumbo scatterless pan is nice because it has a wire rack to keep your bunny up off of the soiled material, and it is plenty big for a Holland Lop bunny.  Another litter box that some customers use with their rabbits is the Amakunft rabbit litter box from Amazon (shown in blue).  The Amakunft litter box is very large at 17.3 x 13.4 inches and is made entirely of plastic, but there are no clips to attach it to a cage, and it is a pricier option for a rabbit litter box.  CalPalmy makes a nearly identical rabbit litter box (shown in cream) as the Amakunft and may be a bit cheaper. 

Even if you potty train your bunny, you can expect to find "bunny chocolate chips" dropped here and there, but about 95% of the urine should be in the litter pan.  Spaying/neutering can help bunnies who continue to drop poo balls to mark their territory.  :)
Check out our litter training YouTube video and blog article on LITTER TRAINING YOUR RABBIT. 
Bedding for Litter Box or Cage Tray (if using a wire cage) A common misunderstanding is to place bedding all over the solid floor of the cage.  This will confuse the bunny.  Bedding/litter should only be placed in the litter box or the slide-out tray of a wire floor cage.  
We use the compressed pine pellets found in the horse supply section of Rural King or Tractor Supply (see links above).  If your bunny's litter box has a grate, you don't have to worry about the oils in the pine being in contact with your bunny.  A little goes a long way, and the price is very affordable too: about $6 for 40 pounds!

We compost our used litter, but bunny poo can actually be used as fertilizer without aging in a compost pile...so go ahead and dump those bunny pellets straight into your garden if you choose!
Bunny Carrier/Kennel:
Whether it's for transporting your new bunny home from the breeder, trips to the vet, bunny vacations, or just for safely carrying your bunny to his/her exercise area, a small carrier or kennel is a wise investment.  I recommend a hard plastic carrier since bunnies can chew fabric carriers, and you don't need anything large.  My favorite is the Petmate 19" kennel with top door for easy loading/unloading.  It's usually about $35 on Amazon or pet stores.  I use this carrier daily when I take my bunnies to and from their outdoor play areas.  That way, they can't ever get spooked and escape from my arms into harm's way.
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Bunny Food & Water Bowls + Hay Racks

Bunny's Food Bowl

Whatever food bowl or dish you choose for your bunny, make sure it's easy to clean an hard to tip over!  Bunnies often like to dig in their dishes and flip over everything!  We like bunny food and water bowls that attach to the wire mesh of our bunny condos, but heavy ceramic bowls work well if your bunny has a different style enclosure. 
Our favorite plastic snap-on food dish called an E-Z Crock, though the Ware Slide-N-Lock dishes are great options too.  Two cute ceramic floor style food bowls are the green cabbage Kaytee Vege-T-Bowl and the orange carrot Kaytee Vege-T-Bowl, which is large and ideal for leafy green treats or even small amounts of hay. 

Bunny Water Bowls

Bunnies need a constant supply of fresh water!  Water crocks or bowls are great options, giving bunnies easy access to water, but they require frequent cleaning since bunnies get a lot of fur, hay, and even poo balls (true story) in the water.  Our favorite rabbit water bowl is the 20oz Living World locking bowl though the 10oz Ware Slide-N-Lock dishes also work well and are a bit smaller.  These locking bunny bowls attach to the wire mesh of an exercise pen, hutch, or similar enclosure. 
Water bottles are an option as well since they only need refilled a couple times per week, though some bunnies don't drink as much with a bottle compared to a water bowl.  Just make sure to disinfect the bottle and spout regularly to avoid bacteria build up.  After testing MANY water bottles, our favorite is the 32 oz. Lixit wide mouth water bottle (ball bearing style).  It's easy to fill and clean and doesn't drip if filled completely.   ALWAYS test the bottle with your finger and make sure it will dispense water! 

Where do I put my Bunny's Hay?

Hay is super messy but vital to your rabbit's diet since it provides the long fibers necessary to keep the gut balanced and teeth filed...but it will be all over your floor!  Placing your bunny's hay in the litter box, a small hay container on the floor, or a hay rack above or near the litter box can help minimize the mess. 
* Option #1 - Place hay inside the litter box.  A large cat litter box or 4 gallon Gorilla Tubs work well.  This does waste some hay that will get soiled upon but contains the hay fairly well. 
*Option #2 - Create your own DIY hay rack using inexpensive plastic containers attached on or above your bunny's litter box (rabbits like to eat and poop simultaneously).
*Option #3 - Wooden hay rack: If you'd like a hay rack that looks really cute, then a wooden hay rack with hay dispenser holes might be best (most untreated wood is safe for bunny to chew as long as it's not an exotic, oily wood). 
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Nail Trimmers
Small animal nail trimmers work fine and are pretty cheap at pet stores or Amazon (I bought these for about 3 dollars).
         
Trim your bunny’s nails every 1-2 months as needed.  Be careful not to cut the pink “quick” and cause bleeding (flour or cornstarch works to stop any bleeding). 
If your bunny has dark nails, use a flashlight or sunshine to see where the quick is inside the nail.  Trim a bit below the quick.  You might be nervous at first, but you'll get the hang(nail) of it!
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HairBuster Bunny Brush
HairBuster Bunny Brush
 Rabbit BrushLi'l Pals Massage Brush
Brush
Bunnies should be brushed weekly and daily when molting.  At right is the Lil Pals Massage brush, which is really easy to use and has soft bristles, but I'm not sure about availability.  Left is the HairBuster comb, which is great for keeping fur from flying all over the place.  The HairBuster is my choice when grooming bunnies.  Many other brush types are available, so it might take a bit of trail and error before you find one that works for you and your bunny.
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 Toys
Toilet paper tubes stuffed with hay, plastic whiffle balls, hardwood toys (unfinished, non-treated wood), grass tunnels, grass mats, plastic baby stacking cups, willow wreaths and willow balls, and BOXES (bunnies LoVe to shred and dig inside cardboard boxes) are all great bunny toy ideas. 

Toys keep your bunny entertained, and wood toys help your bunny trim his/her teeth.  We use fresh organic apple tree branches (which are also pain relievers for bunnies) as well as willow tree branches (which can be shaped into fun willow twig toys).  If you don't have an apple tree, Farmer Dave's Pet Supply sells some nice quality apple branch sticks. Be careful sourcing apple tree branches, as commercial apples are heavily sprayed with pesticides. 
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Grass Tunnel from Amazon
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Toilet paper tube stuffed with hay...a cheap bunny toy!
bonding bunnies
Envy & Sunny Jim: Doe & Buck
Bonding Rabbits: Should I get more than one bunny?
This isn't an easy question to answer, and there are many factors to consider before making a decision.  I usually suggest beginning with ONE bunny, getting it spayed/neutered, and then seeking a partner bunny.  Exceptions are for female littermates (sisters or mother/daughter) who are already bonded and more likely to tolerate each other until spaying. 
For more details, see my page on Bonding Rabbits. 
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Bunny Medical Care

Veterinary Care:
Before getting a rabbit, it's a good idea to locate a rabbit-savvy veterinarian in case your bunny should ever become sick or needs to be spayed/neutered (unless you plan to breed your bunny, spaying/neutering is a good idea to help maintain health and reduce unwanted territorial behavior). 
Rabbit-Savvy Veterinary Clinics in Ohio to Consider:
Animal Clinic Northview in North Ridgeville, Ohio
Avon Lake Animal Clinic in Avon Lake, OH (We see Dr. Krupka at this clinic!)
West Geauga Veterinary Hospital in Chesterland, Ohio
West Park Animal Hospital in Cleveland
Bird and Exotic Pet Wellness Center near Toledo, Ohio
Rascal Animal Clinic - Dublin, OH
Animals Unlimited - Jackson, OH
MedVet Hilliard - Columbus, OH

Getting a bunny spayed or neutered can cost $300+, but it is a worthwhile investment if your bunny begins to display unwanted behaviors upon reaching maturity around 5 months.  Most vet clinics will wait until the bunny is 5-6 months old before performing the surgery.  It's best to do your research beforehand so that you are fully prepared.   
Other Rabbit Resources:
Visit our YouTube Channel
The Nature Trail - This is like an encyclopedia for bunny owners!!
Hickory Ridge Hollands - Excellent blog articles about bunny behavior!
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De-worming
PLEASE discuss de-worming with your bunny-savvy vet.  Even if your bunny doesn't play outside, creepy crawlies such as pinworms are still a possibility.  My rabbits play outside often, but I only worm them if I see symptoms (tiny white worms in poop or decreased weight) to reduce the likelihood of the parasites becoming resistant to the treatment.  Safe-Guard and Ivomec 1% are two products for oral de-worming, but since Ivomec can be difficult to dose and can have negative effects, we'll focus on Safe-Guard here.  

Safe-Guard Equi-Bits: Safe-Guard is available both as a liquid goat de-wormer and Equi-Bits pellets (as well as a paste, but the medicine is not suspended evenly for small doses).  The Equi-Bits pellets are much easier to administer since no syringe is needed and most bunnies seem to approve of the taste.  I feed 3 to 5 pellets per bunny daily for five days (dosage for dwarf breeds such as Holland lops depending on weight with the smallest getting 3 pellets and larger false dwarf Hollands five pellets).  Stop for five days.  Repeat treatment for five more days, especially if worms are evident.  Available at Tractor Supply or Amazon. Again, please check with your veterinarian about your bunny's specific needs.

Grapefruit Seed Extract: If you are interested in a natural method for worming your bunny, you may wish to consider grapefruit seed extract (available online or at health food stores).  I use 10 drops per gallon of water for about two weeks along with a few pumpkin seeds sprinkled on their food.  You can read more about this and other herbal formulas at Rise and Shine Rabbitry.  It may be useful to rotate your deworming treatments to discourage parasite resistance.  In persistent worm cases, medicinal wormer such as Equi-Bits or a prescription from your veterinarian is likely a better option than an herbal remedy.
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Basic Bunny Care Tips

Feeding your Bunny:
Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems, so it is vital that you (and your children) are ALWAYS careful what your bunny is fed.  A bunny given too many and the wrong kind of treats WILL DIE!
 
Bunny Pellets: We feed our Holland Lops 1/8 to 1/4 cup of Sherwood Adult Complete (or Baby) Rabbit Food in the morning with a few leaves of spring mix/kale/spinach/chard/cilantro.  We occasionally offer pinch of raw, organic rolled oats – not the quick oats - but carbohydrates like oats can upset the digestive balance in sensitive bunnies and should be fed sparingly.  If the bunny has eaten his/her feed by the end of the day, we offer up to 1/8 to 1/4 cup more Sherwood feed.  Always follow the feeding directions on the bag or per your veterinarian's recommendation. 
 
  • Switching brands?  If you ever decide to switch brand/type of your bunny's food, it is highly recommended to very slowly mix small amounts of the new food into the current food over the period of 1-2 weeks.  By the end of the second week, your bunny can usually be completely eating the new brand of food with minimal to no digestive upset.  Switching from a different brand to Sherwood is usually very easy on bunny tummies, but some bunnies can be resistant to a healthier food (it's like trying to wean a child off of sugar).  Don't give up, as I've never had a bunny fail to transition to Sherwood rabbit food eventually.

  • Many pet store foods contain corn, soy, sugars, excess protein, and even mold!  Oxbow is probably the best you will find at local pet shops, but I highly recommend Sherwood brand.  You get what you pay for, and cheap food can result in costly vet bills and shorten your bunny's life.  Sherwood brand seems to have the best ingredients, quality, and transparency about their brand.  Check out their website and decide for yourself.    http://SherwoodPetHealth.com/Rabbit-Food

  • REMEMBER: If your bunny ever stops eating, it is imperative that you get him/her eating again ASAP.  This may be gastrointestinal stasis, which is likely the most common rabbit ailment and biggest cause of sudden death in rabbits.  My first step is usually a syringe of Sherwood's Appetite Restore mixed with water and often a bit of infant gas drops.  A gentle tummy massage while holding your bunny on his/her stomach on your lap with the bottom slightly elevated can help to loosen gas bubbles.  Then let bunny hop around, repeat Appetite Restore syringes as directed on the package, and encourage movement and eating hay.  Hopping and eating are excellent signs, but you still should seek a veterinarian immediately.  Sherwood offers an emergency kit that might be worth buying to keep on hand for such an emergency.  If your bunny does not start eating, please take it to a rabbit-savvy veterinarian ASAP!  You definitely don't want to force-feed a bunny with an obstruction, so better to be safe than sorry and seek help.
 
Fresh Water: A constant supply of fresh water is very important!  Always check your bunny’s crock or water bottle daily and keep it clean and filled.  We give our bunnies reverse osmosis filtered water in water bowls.  Filtered water isn't necessary, but if filtered water is accessible, it may promote a healthier bunny.  Water bowls may be the best option to encourage greater hydration, but a few bunnies seem to prefer bottles.   
 
Timothy Hay: Fiber in bunny food and hay helps to keep their teeth filed and food in the digestive tract moving towards the “exit.”  Timothy hay is high in fiber and low in protein, calcium, and calories, so it is the most recommended hay for rabbits.  Whether you buy it from a local farmer, feed store, or online, always check it for mold and freshness.  Pet store hays are often moldy!  We always keep fresh timothy hay or orchard grass in our bunnies’ enclosures, either in a toilet paper tube, hay rack, or a pile on the floor.  If the hay doesn't smell deliciously grassy and have a green tint, it probably isn't fresh or was cut too mature.  Second cutting timothy is our favorite hay type (first is thicker and coarser and third cutting soft and supple).  Orchard grass is fine too, as is a bit of clover or alfalfa, but straight alfalfa is too rich, so steer clear of that hay. 
 
Treats: You can offer a bunny that is older than 6 months about 1/2 to 1 cup of greens daily, but greens aren't necessary if providing fresh hay and a quality pellet.  Our babies usually munch a bit of their moms' leafy greens, so it's usually OK to continue a thumb-sized piece of green daily when you bring your baby home.  SLOWLY increase to 1/2 cup daily (or less frequently) by around 6 months old.  This is greens only (leaf lettuce, kale, romaine, parsley, cilantro, dandelion, plantain herb), NOT rich treats like carrot chunks, banana slices, or berries, which are off-limits until around 6 months and only once or twice a week.  Definitely slow down or stop leafy greens if your bunny develops mushy stool or other bowel/digestive changes.  Too much of "wet and green" foods can be dangerous though, so please research bunny-safe treats online and discuss this with your veterinarian.
 
Grooming:
Nails:  Bunnies’ nails need trimmed about every month to six weeks.  It is often easiest to gently wrap your bunny in a small towel and trim one paw at a time or have someone hold your bunny while you trim the nails.  Cheap cat nail trimmers work fine.  The only important instruction is to find the pink “quick” in the nail, and don’t trim too close.  Cornstarch, flour, or blood-stop powder can help if you accidentally nick the quick.  Use a flashlight or sunshine to help you see inside dark nails.  If in doubt, just trim the sharp tip until you get the hang of it, or have your vet's groomer help you.  Another tip is to gently squeeze the trimmers on the nail before trimming and see if your rabbit retracts the paw in pain - if not, it's probably safe to trim to that length.
 
Brushing: Your bunny will need brushed every few weeks.  When molting (hair is being shed everywhere), brush your bunny daily until the molt is finished.  This helps to prevent your bunny from ingesting too much hair.  You may also wish to feed Sherwood’s Digestive Support tablets during your bunny’s molting days.  See above for our brush recommendations.
 
Other Helpful Bunny Tips:

Litter Training: Yes, bunnies can be litter-trained, usually in a few weeks.  Rogue poo balls will still be present, but most messes should be in the litter box after some time, persistence, and patience.  Litter boxes with a wire grate over the absorbent bedding keep your bunny up out of the mess and prevent digging, which is so tempting to them (see options pictured near top of page).  Ware’s Jumbo Scatterless Lock ‘n Litter pan is a great option for about $20 on Amazon or Chewy.com.  Options for absorbent bedding include Carefresh Naturals shredded cardboard, Yesterday’s News paper pellets, aspen shavings, shredded newspaper, or pine pellets from TSC/Rural King.  Pine pellets need to be under a wire grate, as they can be problematic to sensitive bunnies who chew/dig in them.
 
To begin, place the litter box in the cage corner your pet seems to prefer for urinating.  Any urine you find outside the litter box can be absorbed with a paper towel and then placed in the litter box to help your bunny realize that the litter box is its bathroom.  Do the same with any poo balls you can gather.  It’s also a good idea to place the tube of hay or hay rack on the litter box, as bunnies often eat and poop at the same time.  Efficient, huh? 
 
As your bunny gets the hang of the litter box, you can begin short play sessions in a small area outside the cage, but bring the litter box or have a second box outside the cage (make sure the box smells like a bunny bathroom).  Getting your bunny spayed/neutered helps litter training to be more thorough, as many bunnies drop poo balls along their path as a territorial behavior caused by their hormones.

INTERACTION- When your bunny first arrives at your home, make sure it is eating, drinking, going to the bathroom, and kept in a relatively quiet environment for the first day.  After your bunny calms down, carefully and firmly lift it from its cage and hold it in your lap on the floor or allow it to play in a small area with you.  Keep your bunny's world small at first, and supervise young children carefully when they play with the bunny.  Remember that rabbits are scared of being lifted and carried, so please learn how to carefully carry him/her and demonstrate this to your children.  

Spaying/Neutering: It is a good idea to find a rabbit-savvy veterinarian in your area where you can take your bunny in case of an illness or if you decide to spay/neuter.  I HIGHLY (HIGHLY!!!!) recommend spaying/neutering if the bunny is to be an inside pet.  Hormones can make your bunny do crazy and unpleasant things such as digging, becoming more distant, spraying, mounting, and being a big old grump.  DON'T GIVE UP - spay or neuter your bunny around 5/6 months!  It is well worth it for everyone's sanity, and your bunny will be more lovable and stop pooping/peeing to mark his/her territory.  It usually takes 3-6 weeks for the hormones to subside, so have patience. 


Housing your Bunny:
Bunnies can live in a cage or hutch.  Inside a house or garage is ideal, but if your bunny must live in an outdoor hutch, make sure to offer plenty of shade, monitor him/her in the heat, and provide shelter from the wind and rain.  Hot weather is more dangerous to rabbits than cold temperatures.  Our bunnies are housed in a climate controlled barn, so they are not used to temperatures below 50 or above 80 degrees.  Please take care to protect your new bunny from extreme temperatures, especially when first bringing him/her to your home and during hot weather.  HEAT/SUN CAN AND WILL KILL A BUNNY QUICKLY!

Please see cage examples and suggestions above.  If the cage you select has a wire floor, you might want to add a plastic foot rest mat (available from Martin's Cages, Tractor Supply, or BunnyRabbit.com) - even a piece of cardboard or ceramic tile will provide some relief if their feet become sore.  Blankets and soft fabrics and pillows also make great cushions for your bunny.    

Other Tips:
  • Always monitor small children with your bunny.  Baby bunnies are very fragile and can be overstimulated! 
  • Make sure an adult is in charge of giving your bunny small amounts of treats.
  • If your bunny becomes grumpy around 5-6 months of age, spaying/neutering can help.
  • Rabbits can be litter trained!  Ask us for help if needed.
  • Though rabbits can be leash-trained, extreme caution and lengthy training should be used to keep the bunny safe.

How to Trim a Rabbit's Nails

Trimming your rabbit's nails can be an intimidating task at first, but it's really pretty easy once you get the hang of it.  Here are the steps that I use when trimming our bunnies' nails:
  1. Gather your tools: nail trimmers, a small towel to wrap the bunny in to keep it calm (I sewed Velcro onto a little blanket so that I could wrap it securely around the bunny, but a stretchy baby blanket works well too), a flashlight if your rabbit has dark nails, and a small baggie of cornstarch, flour, or blood stop powder, just in case!
  2. Wrap bunny securely in the towel and gently place it on its back on your lap (this is only briefly and will not harm your bunny).  Alternatively, you can hold your bunny and have someone else trim the nails.
  3. You can wet your bunny's paws with a bit of water to help the fur separate from the nails.  I don't always do this.
  4. For each nail, find the opaque pink quick near the base of the nail.  Use your nail trimmers and cut the nail a little bit away from that quick.  If you nick the quick, use your powder to help stop the bleeding.  I find that trimming nails in the sunshine helps to identify where the quick is more easily.  Some people like to use a small flashlight for bunnies with dark nails.
  5. Repeat the process for all 10 nails on the front paws and 8 nails on the back paws.  That's it! 
  6. Now is a good time to give your bunny a quick health exam, checking its vent, scent glands near the vent for smelly buildup (which you can gently wipe away), and examine its teeth and ears. 
Nesting Box
If you're planning to breed your bunnies, then you'll want an appropriately-sized nesting box for the few days prior to your doe kindling (having her babies/kits) through the babies' first three weeks (until they are hopping out of the box). 
For Holland lops, we use nest boxes approximately 9 1/2" x 13" x 7" tall and tapered to 5" tall in the front.  You can make one out of plywood (remember to measure your cage doorway first), but the metal boxes are so much easier to disinfect afterwards, though they might be too cold if used in an outdoor hutch. 
My favorite nest boxes are made by a gentleman from Pennsylvania who sells them on eBay.  The regular (not large) size is just right for most Hollands, and they come in such fun colors!  I remove the plywood bottom and use a sturdy piece of cardboard instead.  I then fill with a 1-inch layer of Carefresh or shredded newspaper/aspen shavings and top with soft hay.  Momma will make a nice place for her babies in the back and pull fur to keep them warm.  When the babies are about to open their eyes around day 10, I change the bedding if soiled but save any clean fur and place it back in the box with the babies.
KW Cages makes nice metal nest boxes with removable metal floors, but since their shipping is very high, it's cheaper for me to buy nest boxes on eBay and use cardboard for the floors.  When the litter is finished with the box, I clean it with vinegar and/or tea tree essential oil mixed with Vodka and let it dry in the sunshine if possible. 
Please note that some of the links on this website are Amazon affiliate links to products that we wholeheartedly recommend and many of which we use or have used with our bunnies.  OhioHollandLops.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
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