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Welcome to the Hook's Hollands Bunny Hub, a curated collection of our most helpful bunny articles, videos, links, and blog posts about rabbit care. Rabbit health, daily care, food & hay, recommended supplies - all at your fingertips!
Whether you're only considering a pet bunny or are already a bunny owner, the Bunny Hub is a great place to learn and discover helpful bunny care information all in once place. Enjoy!
Whether you're only considering a pet bunny or are already a bunny owner, the Bunny Hub is a great place to learn and discover helpful bunny care information all in once place. Enjoy!
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Is a rabbit the right pet for you and your family?
Read our BUNNY BASICS 101. What bunny colors are you interested in? Check out our bunny color chart! |
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What you may not know about pet rabbits:
- Rabbits can live for 8-10 years, so it is not a decision to take lightly and requires commitment.
- Bunnies prefer to interact on their level and may get quite stressed when held or carried. They are not ideal pets for young children, who tend to expect bunnies to act like stuffed animals to be carried around.
- You can just have one bunny, but it must have daily interaction with you and not be neglected.
- A bunny needs daily care and is not a good choice for those who travel or have rigorous schedules.
- It is usually best to begin with just one bunny and add a second after the first is spayed/neutered.
- Two bunnies may not ever bond and could need to live in separate enclosures.
- Spaying/neutering is suggested for pet rabbits since hormones can cause undesired behaviors.
- Getting your bunny spayed/neutered usually costs between $300-500.
- Rabbits can be litter trained rather easily, but expect territorial accidents unless spayed/neutered.
- Even when litter trained, you WILL find rogue poo balls, but they're usually dry and not gross to pick up.
- If fed a soy-free high quality pellet AND given a clean litter box daily, your rabbit should not stink.
- As prey animals, rabbits can be sensitive to other household pets, especially dogs.
- It is essential to locate a rabbit-savvy veterinarian for emergencies and spaying/neutering.
- Rabbits have sensitive digestive systems and should not be fed cheap pellets or sugary treats.
- Never feed a baby bunny anything but pellets, hay, and maybe a small thumb-sized leafy green.
- Always research bunny-safe treats before feeding your rabbit potentially dangerous fruits/veggies.
- GI stasis is probably the most common rabbit ailment. Watch our video to learn more about stasis.
Find a QUALITY rabbit breeder local to you. Hoobly and RabbitPedia are valuable tools for seeking breeders near you. A good breeder should be willing to provide you with information about how his/her rabbits are raised and should not pressure you into purchasing immediately or without careful consideration of the commitment. If they do not have a current website or lack transparency about their rabbitry, look elsewhere!
Interested in getting a bunny from Hook's Hollands?
Bunnies must be picked up here in northern Ohio. Please check our SALE PAGE to see if bunnies are available, and complete the application to reserve a bunny. We have a very small rabbitry and only have a handful of litters available throughout the year. Babies are not available with pedigrees, only a select well-typed juniors and young seniors.
Frequently Asked Questions are posted on our FAQ PAGE.
Please view our SALES POLICY before applying for a bunny.
Bunnies must be picked up here in northern Ohio. Please check our SALE PAGE to see if bunnies are available, and complete the application to reserve a bunny. We have a very small rabbitry and only have a handful of litters available throughout the year. Babies are not available with pedigrees, only a select well-typed juniors and young seniors.
Frequently Asked Questions are posted on our FAQ PAGE.
Please view our SALES POLICY before applying for a bunny.
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Research Bunny Care & Gather Supplies!
Our BUNNY CARE page lists our top suggestions for rabbit food brands, hay types, rabbit cage and exercise pen ideas, litter boxes, grooming tools, toys, and more. The BUNNY CHECKLIST that I supply my customers is helpful to review prior to picking up your bunny from the breeder or shelter. |
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Bunny Hay & Food
Although these are covered on the BUNNY CARE page, it's a frequent question and deserves a bit of redundancy.
RABBIT HAY:
Bunnies should be fed hay freely at all times, as their teeth grow constantly like our fingernails and need filed by the hay, and their digestive systems need the fiber to prevent GI stasis. Timothy hay, orchard grass, oat grass, a mixture of these, or hay with a small amount of alfalfa mixed in are all good choices. Many hays come in 1st, 2nd, and/or 3rd cuttings. 1st cutting is the thickest, 2nd a bit softer and greener (my favorite), and 3rd very soft and green. Purchasing hay online through Amazon, Small Pet Select, Rabbit Hole Hay, or Farmer Dave's is preferable to pet store hays that are often not very fresh.
BUNNY FOOD:
I currently feed my bunnies Sherwood free-choice bunny food (purchased on Amazon or through Sherwood online) in the Baby formula through around 12 weeks of age and then the Adult Complete formula. Sherwood has adult rabbit pellets in both free-feed (blue bag) and measured formulas (green bag). I prefer the free-choice pellets since there is little danger of over-feeding compared to the measured pellet.
Two other bunny food brands I have used and recommend are Modesto Milling Organic Rabbit Food and Oxbow Garden Selects or Oxbow Organic. These, along with Sherwood, are the only rabbit pellets I know that do NOT CONTAIN SOY, but be aware that only Sherwood does not contain grain. Grain, soy, and sweeteners like molasses can lead to less hay consumption and potential bacteria overgrowth in your bunny's digestive system.
Although these are covered on the BUNNY CARE page, it's a frequent question and deserves a bit of redundancy.
RABBIT HAY:
Bunnies should be fed hay freely at all times, as their teeth grow constantly like our fingernails and need filed by the hay, and their digestive systems need the fiber to prevent GI stasis. Timothy hay, orchard grass, oat grass, a mixture of these, or hay with a small amount of alfalfa mixed in are all good choices. Many hays come in 1st, 2nd, and/or 3rd cuttings. 1st cutting is the thickest, 2nd a bit softer and greener (my favorite), and 3rd very soft and green. Purchasing hay online through Amazon, Small Pet Select, Rabbit Hole Hay, or Farmer Dave's is preferable to pet store hays that are often not very fresh.
BUNNY FOOD:
I currently feed my bunnies Sherwood free-choice bunny food (purchased on Amazon or through Sherwood online) in the Baby formula through around 12 weeks of age and then the Adult Complete formula. Sherwood has adult rabbit pellets in both free-feed (blue bag) and measured formulas (green bag). I prefer the free-choice pellets since there is little danger of over-feeding compared to the measured pellet.
Two other bunny food brands I have used and recommend are Modesto Milling Organic Rabbit Food and Oxbow Garden Selects or Oxbow Organic. These, along with Sherwood, are the only rabbit pellets I know that do NOT CONTAIN SOY, but be aware that only Sherwood does not contain grain. Grain, soy, and sweeteners like molasses can lead to less hay consumption and potential bacteria overgrowth in your bunny's digestive system.
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Look in our Lop Shop for handmade fleece comfort items for your bunny! Snuggle mats, cage liners, water bowl drip mats, litter box liners, bunny bed pillows - all absorbent and machine washable!
Need bunny supplies? View our favorite bunny food, hay, and other supplies on our BUNNY CARE page. |
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Can two bunnies be best friends? In most cases, two spayed/neutered bunnies can be bonded, though the amount of time it takes to solidify the bond varies greatly from a few days to many months. It is best to begin with short play sessions in a neutral territory and involve a fun activity and/or treat. Some mounting is to be expected, but never allow aggression such as biting or growling. Bonding bunnies often takes plenty of persistence and dedication, and it's always a good idea to have a backup plan if the bunnies always need to be housed separately. Check out our bonding bunnies page for many more tips about bonding rabbits.
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I always recommend that those with pet bunnies get them spayed or neutered (typically at least 5/6 months of age). Without reducing the hormones through spaying or neutering, your bunny could exhibit ugly behaviors such as territorial aggression, spraying, mounting, digging, and urine accidents. Most, if not all, of these behaviors are drastically reduced with spaying and neutering, which helps your bunny to become a more closely-knit member of the family and generally a more mellow, loving bunny. Read our blog article about spaying and neutering rabbits for more information.
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Do bunnies molt? You bet! Most bunnies have molts (shed their fur) twice a year, though some molts are barely noticeable while others look like someone spilled the contents of a down pillow on the floor. It is important to brush your bunny so that he/she does not ingest too much fur and develop GI stasis or a blockage. Digestive tablets can be helpful during molts too. Check out this article on caring for a molting bunny.
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The Scoop on Bunny Poop:
If I had a dollar for every email inquiring about bunny poop, I could retire in the Caymans with my own cabana boy and unlimited umbrella drinks. Cecal pellets (AKA cecotropes) are NOT diarrhea and are totally normal (see photo). Bunnies usually eat most of these, but babies in particular like to smash them about their cage/enclosure. Diarrhea, in contrast, would be toothpaste-consistency or looser and is an emergency trip to the veterinarian. Poop ornaments are not always a cause for concern and are usually just a reminder to give your bunny more hay and less pellets as well as exercise and plenty of water. Digestive tablets can be helpful when you see poop ornaments or during molts. If your bunny stops eating/drinking and shows no interest in moving like normal, suspect GI stasis or other illness and contact your bunny vet. |
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My bunny is home - now what?
A common question from new bunny owners is how to interact during the first few days or to socialize a bunny who is skittish. Imagine you are taken from your mom and siblings, the only environment you've ever known, and plopped into a brand new home with scary smells, sounds, and new people whom you haven't yet ascertained are friend or foe. |
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I always recommend to allow your bunny a quiet adjustment period in his/her cage or enclosure. Dim the lights, keep other pets (dogs especially) away, and provide boxes or other hiding places for when your bunny feels scared. Once you see your bunny eating, drinking, and going to the bathroom, try opening the cage door to see if your bunny desires to interact. If your bunny approaches as you see in the photo above, it's a good indication that he/she is ready to explore.
Let your bunny come to you. Bunnies may sit with (or on) you on their own terms but don't appreciate being forced.
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As prey animals, bunnies feel most comfortable on the ground and under their own control. Don't expect your bunny to sit in your lap or allow you to carry it around like a baby. Doing so will likely result in scrambling, scratching, and a frightened bunny. This is one reason why I never recommend a bunny for a small child's pet. Bunnies are fragile and need delicate interaction, especially at first. Your bunny may eventually enjoy sitting with or on you, but this will usually take weeks or months of courtship. :)
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Instead, sit on the floor just outside your bunny's cage/enclosure. Ideally, wait until your bunny hops out of the cage; if not, gently but firmly scoop bunny by cradling its hindquarters in one hand and using your other hand to bring it securely to your forearm and chest. If the bunny can wiggle, it will, and injury can result (to either you or the bunny). Bring the bunny to the floor just outside the cage near where you are sitting. Keep the area small at first, and you may want to bring bunny's litter box into the area or have a litter box for him/her to use when playing. If you are exceptionally lucky, your bunny will be relaxed and let you hold it while sitting on the floor, but if not, proceed to the next section.
Ignore your bunny. Yes, I know it's difficult when all you want to do is snuggle your ball of fluff, but watch a movie on Netflix, play a game, read a book, and IGNORE your bunny - until he/she comes to investigate you. Then, reward your bunny with gentle head rubs, soothing words, and even a few raw oats as a treat (just a few, as oats can upset the digestive balance in your bunny's gut). This works to create a positive association and help your bunny realize befriending you is rewarding. Depending on how outgoing your bunny is, bonding may be very quick or may take weeks of gentle coaxing. Don't give up. If it seems your bunny is terrified, be a detective (or bunny whisperer) and consider possible stressors: dogs (even smelling other pets), loud sounds, temperature, lack of hiding places, strong perfumes/detergents, switching to a new food too rapidly, water dish vs. bowl, illness, etc.
Ignore your bunny. Yes, I know it's difficult when all you want to do is snuggle your ball of fluff, but watch a movie on Netflix, play a game, read a book, and IGNORE your bunny - until he/she comes to investigate you. Then, reward your bunny with gentle head rubs, soothing words, and even a few raw oats as a treat (just a few, as oats can upset the digestive balance in your bunny's gut). This works to create a positive association and help your bunny realize befriending you is rewarding. Depending on how outgoing your bunny is, bonding may be very quick or may take weeks of gentle coaxing. Don't give up. If it seems your bunny is terrified, be a detective (or bunny whisperer) and consider possible stressors: dogs (even smelling other pets), loud sounds, temperature, lack of hiding places, strong perfumes/detergents, switching to a new food too rapidly, water dish vs. bowl, illness, etc.
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Remember, bunnies are unique creatures and need to be held to a different set of expectations than other domestic pets like dogs or cats. Patience and dedication will go a long ways to helping bond with your bunny - slowly, through numerous gentle interactions.
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