Frequently Asked Questions

These are the most commonly asked questions about our Holland Lop bunnies. 
Feel free to contact us if your question isn't addressed. 

Hook's Hollands

Where are you located?
Hook's Hollands - Ohio Holland Lops is located in northern Ohio.  Our organic family farm is near the town of Wellington, Ohio.  We are no longer able to ship bunnies due to United Airlines' policy changes and risks involved.  Of course, you can also find us on Facebook or YouTube.
If you are not located within traveling distance to Ohio, please check your local shelter or rabbit rescue.

I REALLY want one of your Holland Lops; how do I purchase one?
First, it is important to understand that we only have a few litters per year so that we can devote enough attention to the babies that are born as well as the adult rabbits.  If you agree with our philosophy of quality over quantity, large solid floor cages with outdoor exercise as often as possible, litter-training, top-notch pellets, organic hay, filtered drinking water, daily interaction, and breeding stock acquired from renowned breeders from across the United States, then it may be worth the wait to adopt one of our bunnies. 

It may take SEVERAL months before bunnies are available.  Once bunnies are listed on the sale page, CONTACT US to apply for the bunny.  Approved applicants will have the opportunity to reserve an available bunny.  I want my bunnies going to the best environments/caregivers, so priority is given to those that are the best matches for available bunnies.  A $50 non-refundable deposit is necessary to reserve a rabbit, but it can be temporarily held if you will make a deposit in person that week.

Secondly, we will carefully watch each litter of bunny kits for those that can improve our herd and will remain with us.  At around 6-7 weeks old, we begin to make our first round of decisions about which babies to sell and which to keep a while longer.  For this reason, we ask that you please try not to get attached to a particular bunny until you know that it will be placed for sale and available to you.  Bunnies are able to go to their new homes beginning at 8-9 weeks old.

Why are your Holland lop bunnies so expensive?
Our Holland Lops are usually priced around $250-300+ depending on quality, color, and availability, and they come with litter training experience (most babies will still be perfecting that skill).  That may seem like a lot, but the only way to lower our prices is to feed cheap pellets with "fillers" such as corn and soy, spend less time socializing the bunnies, have smaller cages with more bunnies, and to breed our females non-stop...all of which we are completely against!  It may take several months of breeding just to get one doe to "take" and become pregnant, and that litter may or may not be born alive.  We are not breeding to make a profit, but it is a passionate hobby that requires 24/7 attention with no vacations.  The bunnies we do sell merely help to cover SOME of the feed/hay/housing/socialization costs. 

If you're still not convinced why we can't sell our bunnies at Craigslist prices, have a look at our expenses:

Bunny Barn Housing & Equipment	Ongoing Bunny Expenses
Bunny Barn: $15,000+	Sherwood Pellets: $1,500 to $2000 per year
KW Cages Villas: $3,000	Hay: $250 to $1200 per year
Mini Split Heat/AC: $1,200	Supplements & Treats: $400 per year
Water Heater: $400	Water Filters: $75 per year
R/0 Water System: $270	Air Filters: $85 per year
Plumbing/Sink: $600	Litter: $270 per year
Outdoor fencing: $500	Cleaning Supplies: $150 per year
Litter Boxes: $400	Veterinary Care: $300 to $2000 avg. per year
Vacuum: $90 (every 2-3 years)	Labor: 878 hours @ ONLY $5/hour = $4390/yr
Housing/Equipment Total: $21,460	Yearly Expenses: $7,420 to $10,570
-	Yearly Expenses without paying for my labor: $3,030 to $6,180

Without considering the $20,000+ start-up costs OR paying myself anything for the 2 hours minimum I spend daily with the bunnies, I would need to sell 12 to 24 bunnies per year just to break even with yearly operating costs, and I didn't even include electricity/water costs!  This year, I have only sold 9 bunnies.  I am not in this for the profit, obviously. 
I am sharing this personal information to help those who have inquired understand that the price of the bunny is paying for the quality housing/food/hay, litter training/cleaning, daily socialization, and transparency/photos/videos that offers families peace-of-mind regarding how the bunnies have been raised.  If you want a cheap $40 bunny, ask yourself how the seller is able to charge so little.  Quality of care must decline or quantity of bunnies sold must increase.  I am certainly not claiming to be the best, as I am definitely not, but I take immense pride in Hook's Hollands and want to clarify the need for charging what I do.  In reality, I need to charge double to make even a meager profit, but thankfully the videos I create on YouTube are able to subsidize the bunnies. 

Will my bunny need spayed or neutered?
Yes.  Generally, it is a good idea to spay/neuter your bunny unless you plan to breed him/her, as spaying/neutering helps to reduce territorial behaviors, can prevent certain types of cancers, and may assist in litter training.  Bucks and does can become grumpy teenagers around 4-6 months of age and display territorial behaviors such as digging, spraying (males), lunging, difficulty litter training, and cage defensiveness.  Spaying or neutering should help significantly, but your bunny (bucks especially) might calm down with time if you wish to be patient.  More often than not, does kept as pets will be healthier and more pleasant if spayed.  Some bucks will spray, especially if other bunnies are in the area, but others do not spray.  It is recommended to find a rabbit-savvy veterinarian in your area and inquire about spaying/neutering costs before adopting a bunny.  Spaying/neutering a bunny usually costs $200-400 and is often performed when the bunny reaches 5-6 months of age.  If this is a concern, you can always inquire about adopting one of our senior bunnies that has a pleasant disposition and is well past the teenage stage.    

"I accidentally let my male and female bunnies play together, and now I think she's pregnant."  I get emails like this weekly from people around the country.  How long does it take for a male bunny (buck) to impregnate a female bunny (doe)?  Watch this video of Sunny Jim (orange) with Molly.
If you don't get your bunnies spayed/neutered, then extra vigilance and a plan for caring for baby bunnies is necessary.

Bonding BunniesShould I get a BUCK or DOE bunny?
If you merely want a rabbit as a pet, I usually recommend a buck, but it really depends on the bunny's personality, as does can be sweet and amiable just as bucks, especially if spayed.  Bucks can become moody or a bit crazy during bunny puberty just as does can become grumpy or territorial.  Please understand that your particular bunny's temperament is always a variable.  My best advice is to pick a bunny you like and plan on getting it spayed or neutered if necessary.
All of our bunnies get daily interaction, but many rabbits never get over the fear of heights and being picked up.  Most bunnies really enjoy play time on a floor, and if you give him/her small treats (ONLY for bunnies 6 months and older, except a small pinch of raw oats!) like raw oats, a thin slice of banana, or a few stalks of parsley, that definitely helps to create a bond.  Last but not least, give lots of head rubs!  Even the grumpiest bunny will eventually enjoy gentle head rubs.

Does my bunny need a friend?
With PLENTY of daily interaction, most bunnies can live happy lives without another bunny present.  HOWEVER, I do believe that bunnies are happiest with another bunny friend.  The problem is that pairs don't always bond, and keeping them separated before/during/after spaying or neutering can be difficult.  The bunnies may bond easily or may always need separate areas. 
I highly recommend beginning with one bunny, getting that bunny spayed/neutered, and then searching for a partner bunny.  Some shelters and rescues will allow you to bring your bunny to "speed date" available bunnies for adoption.
Check out our blog article about whether two bunnies can get along together and our Tips for Bonding Bunnies. 

How big do Holland lops get?
A quick answer is around 3 to 4 pounds, however it depends on genetics and whether the bunny has one or no dwarf genes.  A true dwarf Holland is closer to 3 pounds while a false dwarf with no dwarf gene can average 4 to 5 pounds.  There's no sure fire way to know whether a Holland is a true dwarf or false dwarf until they're adults, but long ears and a pointy, narrow muzzle are usually good indicators.  Since we're really only talking about a pound difference, unless you plan to show your bunny, it's not that significant.  :) 

How do I litter train my rabbit?
Well, this is a process that requires patience and the understanding that no matter how well your bunny does at urinating in his/her litter box, you'll probably still find a few poo balls scattered on your floor, but they are usually dry and easy to vacuum or pick up.  READ OUR BLOG POST ON LITTER TRAINING YOUR RABBIT!
**As of spring, 2017, all bunnies at Hook's Hollands (even babies) will be litter trained (or nearly litter trained) when they are adopted.  This service requires a lot of time and cleaning on our part!

I recommend that my customers purchase a Large Litter Box or JUMBO corner litter box that has a grate to keep your bunny off of the soiled litter and clips to the side of a cage (you can also create your own grate for nearly any litter box).  A deep cat-style litter box can be used if you prefer.  Use a thin layer of absorbent bedding to line the box.  I like Yesterday's News, CareFresh Natural, compressed wood pellets, or aspen shavings.  Avoid cedar bedding due to potential irritants.  Place the box in the corner that your bunny most uses to urinate.  A smaller second box in the cage might help prevent accidents during the first few weeks.  During play time, bring the litter box (or have an extra litter box) into the play area.  Keep the play area very small until you see your bunny return to the litter box to urinate.  This may take weeks to accomplish, so don't despair!  Slowly, allow your bunny to explore larger areas of your house, and bring him/her back to the litter box every now and then as a spatial reminder of where the box is located.  When you find "escapee poo pellets," pick them up and place them in the litter box so your bunny knows that's what the box is for.  Wipe up urine and place the paper towel in the litter box.  It's handy to have a small Shop-Vac or cordless vacuum near the bunny's cage for daily vacuuming of rogue poo balls, but the urine will eventually be completely or mostly in the litter box.

There are likely many more ideas on the internet for litter-training rabbits.  Be diligent and persistent, and you'll likely succeed!  When you need to clean any accidents, a mixture of white vinegar and water in a spray bottle (I mix it about 50/50) or Zorbx odor-removing cleaner are very helpful.