Hook's Hollands - Ohio Holland Lops is located in northern Ohio. Our family farm is near the town of Wellington, Ohio. Bunny pickups are outside at our farm, and our bunny barn is closed to the public for the health of our rabbits. We do not ship our bunnies or work with pet transporters due to the stress this causes the bunnies and risk of the RHD rabbit virus.
We strongly recommend that only those in Ohio or nearby states and Canadian provinces consider adopting a bunny from us since long-distance travel can be quite stressful to rabbits. We do not recommend flying in to pick up your bunny and flying or driving home. Stress can make a bunny, especially a baby, very sick. We are sorry if this sounds mean or overprotective, but we love our bunnies!
We only have a few litters of Holland lop bunnies per year so that we can devote enough attention to the babies that are born as well as the adult rabbits. If you agree with our philosophy of quality over quantity, large solid floor enclosures with outdoor exercise as often as possible, litter-training, top-notch pellets, organic hay, filtered drinking water, daily interaction, and breeding stock acquired from renowned breeders from across the United States, then it may be worth the wait to adopt one of our bunnies.
We no longer keep a waiting list. Once bunnies are listed on the sale page, a link to the bunny application will be provided. Approved applicants will have the opportunity to reserve an available bunny. I want my bunnies going to the best environments/caregivers, so priority is given to those that are the best matches for available bunnies.
Secondly, we will carefully watch each litter of bunny kits for those that can improve our herd and will remain with us. At around 6-7 weeks old, we begin to make our first round of decisions about which babies to sell and which to keep a while longer. For this reason, we ask that you please try not to get attached to a particular bunny until you know that it will be placed for sale and available to you. Bunnies are able to go to their new homes beginning at 8-9 weeks old.
Why are your bunnies so expensive?
Our Holland Lops are usually priced around $300-400+ depending on quality, color, and availability, and they come with litter training experience (most babies will still be perfecting that skill). That may seem like a lot, but the only way to lower our prices is to feed cheap pellets with "fillers" such as corn and soy, spend less time socializing the bunnies, have smaller enclosures with more bunnies, and to breed our females non-stop...all of which we are completely against!
It may take several months of breeding just to get one doe to "take" and become pregnant, and that litter may or may not be born alive. I spend hours each day caring for the bunnies, making much less than minimum wage. We are not breeding to make a profit, but it is a passionate hobby that requires 24/7 attention with no vacations. The bunnies we do sell merely help to cover SOME of the feed/hay/housing/socialization costs.
Will my bunny need spayed or neutered?
Yes. Generally, it is a good idea to spay/neuter your bunny unless you plan to breed him/her, as spaying/neutering helps to reduce territorial behaviors, can prevent certain types of cancers, and may assist in litter training. Bucks and does can become grumpy teenagers around 4-6 months of age and display territorial behaviors such as digging, spraying (males), lunging, difficulty litter training, and territorial defensiveness. Spaying or neutering should help significantly. Yes, surgery is always a risk, especially with bunnies who are sensitive to anesthesia, but the risk is usually outweighed by the potential benefits.
It is recommended to find a rabbit-savvy veterinarian in your area and inquire about spaying/neutering costs before adopting a bunny. Spaying/neutering a bunny usually costs $200-400+ and is often performed when the bunny reaches 5-6 months of age (or older). If this is a concern, you can always inquire about adopting one of our senior bunnies that has a pleasant disposition and is well past the teenage stage or check your local shelters.
"I accidentally let my male and female bunnies play together, and now I think she's pregnant." I get this question A LOT! It literally takes a few SECONDS for a male rabbit to breed a female rabbit. Rabbits do not need to be "in heat" to become pregnant; as prey animals, they are always able to accept a male. If you don't get your bunnies spayed/neutered, then extra vigilance and a plan for caring for baby bunnies is necessary.
Is a male or female rabbit a better pet?
If you merely want a rabbit as a pet, I usually recommend a buck (male), but it really depends on the bunny's personality, as does (females) can be sweet and amiable just as bucks, especially if spayed. Bucks can become moody or a bit crazy during bunny puberty just as does can become grumpy or territorial. Please understand that your particular bunny's temperament is always a variable. My best advice is to pick a bunny you like and plan on getting it spayed or neutered around 5/6 months of age.
All of our bunnies get daily interaction, but many rabbits never get over the fear of heights and being picked up. They're prey animals after all, naturally cautious and skittish! Most bunnies really enjoy play time on the floor, and if you give him/her small treats like leafy greens, a thin slice of banana, or a few stalks of parsley, that definitely helps to create a bond. (Treats are ONLY for bunnies 6 months and older, except the tiniest pieces of a leafy green!) Last but not least, give lots of head rubs! Even the grumpiest bunny will eventually enjoy gentle head rubs.
Should I get ONE or TWO bunnies?
With PLENTY of daily interaction, most bunnies can live happy lives without another bunny present. HOWEVER, I do believe that bunnies are happiest with another bunny friend. The problem is that pairs don't always bond, and keeping them separated before/during/after spaying or neutering can be difficult. The bunnies may bond easily or may always need separate areas. It takes persistence, patience, and separate environments if the bunnies never bond. I highly recommend beginning with one bunny, getting that bunny spayed/neutered, and then searching for a partner bunny. Some shelters and rescues will allow you to bring your bunny to "speed date" available bunnies for adoption. Check out our blog article about whether two bunnies can get along together and our Tips for Bonding Bunnies.
How big do Holland lops get?
A quick answer is around 3 to 4 pounds, however it depends on genetics and whether the bunny has one or no dwarf genes. A true dwarf Holland is closer to 3 pounds while a false dwarf with no dwarf gene can average 4 to 5 pounds. There's no sure fire way to know whether a Holland is a true dwarf or false dwarf until they're adults or are test bred, but long ears and a pointy, narrow muzzle are usually good indicators. Since we're really only talking about a pound difference, unless you plan to show your bunny, it's not that significant. Both true and false dwarf Hollands are still Holland lop bunnies!
How do I litter train my rabbit?
Well, this is a process that requires patience and the understanding that no matter how well your bunny does at urinating in his/her litter box, you'll probably still find a few poo balls scattered on your floor, but they are usually dry and easy to vacuum or pick up. READ OUR BLOG POST ON LITTER TRAINING YOUR RABBIT! **All bunnies at Hook's Hollands (even babies) will be litter trained (or nearly litter trained) when they are adopted. This service requires a lot of time and cleaning on our part!
I recommend that my customers purchase a Large Litter Box or JUMBO corner litter box that has a grate to keep your bunny off of the soiled litter and clips to the side of a cage (you can also create your own grate for nearly any litter box). A deep cat-style litter box can be used if you prefer. Use a thin layer of absorbent bedding to line the box. I like Yesterday's News, CareFresh Natural, compressed wood pellets, or aspen shavings. Avoid cedar bedding due to potential irritants. Place the box in the corner that your bunny most uses to urinate. A smaller second box in the cage might help prevent accidents during the first few weeks. During play time, bring the litter box (or have an extra litter box) into the play area. Keep the play area very small until you see your bunny return to the litter box to urinate. This may take weeks to accomplish, so don't despair! Slowly, allow your bunny to explore larger areas of your house, and bring him/her back to the litter box every now and then as a spatial reminder of where the box is located. When you find "escapee poo pellets," pick them up and place them in the litter box so your bunny knows that's what the box is for. Wipe up urine and place the paper towel in the litter box. It's handy to have a small Shop-Vac or cordless vacuum near the bunny's cage for daily vacuuming of rogue poo balls, but the urine will eventually be completely or mostly in the litter box.
There are likely many more ideas on the internet for litter-training rabbits. Be diligent and persistent, and you'll likely succeed! When you need to clean any accidents, a mixture of white vinegar and water in a spray bottle (I mix it about 50/50) or Zorbx odor-removing cleaner are very helpful.
Are bunnies good pets for kids?
Generally, rabbits are NOT good pets for kids, especially elementary age children. Yes, there are always exceptionally responsible, dedicated children, but in more cases than not, kids grow tired of the responsibility of caring for a bunny and the fact that rabbits generally aren't cuddly or easily carried like cats or small dogs. The parent then becomes the bunny's caregiver, the bunny becomes a dreaded obligation and often is neglected, rehomed, or relinquished to a shelter.
In case you can't tell, I'm passionate about revealing the ugly truth about what happens to so many pet rabbits. PLEASE read my Bunny Basics 101 and watch my rabbit care videos before hastily jumping on the pet bunny bandwagon. It can be a 10 year commitment of caring for a delicate prey animal!
What should I feed my bunny?
Baby bunnies up to 12 weeks old: Our baby bunnies eat Sherwood brand baby rabbit pellets. This is a free choice food, meaning it's safe to feed as much as your bunny desires unless directed otherwise by your veterinarian. Hay and water are always available. Baby bunnies can usually tolerate an alfalfa/timothy/orchard grass mix, but alfalfa hays are rich and not recommended for older bunnies. We feed timothy hay/orchard grass (1st or 2nd cutting) to all of our bunnies, no alfalfa (it's already in the rabbit pellets, so no need for more). No treats other than a few minuscule pieces of leafy greens (leaf lettuce, romaine, kale, spinach, parsley, cilantro, dandelion).
Junior rabbits 3-6 months old: Sherwood brand adult rabbit pellets, free choice formula with timothy/alfalfa blend pellets. We feed up to 1/4 cup per bunny per day, even though it's a food that can be fed freely. Bunnies should eat about 80% hay and pellets as a supplement to their diet. Sherwood has several varieties, but currently, both of their blue bag offerings are free choice foods (one is timothy and the other timothy/alfalfa). Contrary to what is logical, our bunnies have generally tolerated the timothy/alfalfa blend better than the timothy pellet, so that's what we normally use. Timothy hay and/or orchard grass and water always available. Small amounts of leafy greens fed as treats occasionally, as tolerated, slowly working up from a thumb-sized piece to 1/4 cup daily around 6 months if desired. Fruits are very high in sugar and should only be fed sparingly and in small quantities (quarter sized slice of banana twice a week, one strawberry once or twice a week, etc) to bunnies 5/6 months of age and OLDER! Raw oats are great treats, especially when trying to befriend a new bunny, but since oats are a grain, and grains can be problematic, we only feed them very sparingly. Tiny pieces of a leafy green are probably a better choice. **IMPORTANT** Too many greens not only can give your bunny mushy poop but can also cause Gastrointestinal Stasis (cessation of GI movement, eating, drinking, pooping). I HIGHLY recommend only feeding occasional small amounts of greens and discussing your rabbit's diet with your veterinarian. Rabbits usually have sensitive digestive systems!
Adult rabbits 6 months+: We feed up to 1/4 cup of Sherwood adult rabbit pellets (timothy/alfalfa free choice formula) daily to our 4 to 5 pound Holland lops, the same as junior bunnies. Hay and water always available. Some older senior bunnies might not tolerate greens as well as younger bunnies and may have tooth issues requiring either a softer 3rd cutting hay or a coarser 1st cutting hay. Many people choose to feed around 1/2 cup of leafy greens daily to their adult bunnies, but we find this too much for our rabbits and feed a few small leafy greens as treats up to a few times per week. Fruits should continue to be fed sparingly, if at all. Always discuss dietary decisions with your rabbit-savvy veterinarian.
♥SEE OUR BUNNY CARE PAGE FOR MORE INFORMATION ON FEEDING RECOMMENDATIONS FOR RABBITS. ♥Most rabbit foods (other than Sherwood) contain grains, sweeteners, and soy - all of which can lead to gut imbalance in the cecum and cause GI Stasis. ♥Pet store rabbit foods are usually crap. Yep. Truth. Read the ingredients. ♥We strongly advise against feeding your rabbit grains and excessive vegetables and fruits! ♥ALWAYS read the feeding directions on the bunny food bag (it's often weight-based rations) and do not overfeed your rabbit!!!
Can I visit your farm and see your bunnies?
No. Aside from the risks of Covid, the RHD rabbit virus, and potential injury to visitors or my bunnies, I do not have the time to offer tours. Although we live on a farm, it is a private residence, and I value my peaceful country lifestyle. I have worked hard to provide a website and YouTube channel with hundreds of photos and videos of my bunnies. You are invited to watch these anytime. :)
Why breed rabbits when there are many shelter bunnies who need homes?
I debated whether to include this topic, but I have received so many rude, hateful comments on my YouTube channel that I opted to address it for those interested. Unfortunately, especially with today's "cancel culture" mentality, some people judge all breeders as horrible contributors to pet overpopulation and are unwilling to consider the circumstances and details that show evidence of at least semi-responsible behavior.
First, I breed a select few bunnies per year and provide solid floor double story enclosures, frequent exercise, the best food/water available, and constant affection to all of my bunnies. I spend hundreds to thousands per year for my bunnies to receive veterinary care as needed. All who adopt my bunnies must submit a thorough application that demonstrates commitment to providing an exceptional home for an exotic pet such as a bunny. Families are given thorough care information and lifetime email support. If necessary, I will help any of my clients re-home a bunny so that it does not end up in a shelter.
Secondly, I go above and beyond to educate my clients and the public about the complexities and expenses of caring for rabbits. I always refer people to check their local shelters and rescues first and never sugar coat the level of care and commitment required for bunnies. I do not sell these few bunnies to make a profit, it is a labor of love for bunnies and the Holland lop breed.
Many people wish to adopt a particular breed of pet, such as a Holland lop, and I firmly believe that responsible parties have every right to choose how they spend their money and time on a companion for the next 5-10 years. For those unwilling to consider that responsible pathways exist in the breeding world, this information will obviously go unheard, which is particularly unfortunate in a world trying to liberate society of prejudice, inequality, and prejudgement.