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Tips for Bonding Rabbits

12/4/2018

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Unless your project is gluing marshmallow Peep bunnies together, then your task of bonding rabbits is undoubtedly going to require significant persistence, consistency, and patience.  If you are constricted by a tight schedule or are faint of heart, then having a single bunny might be of preference.  And yes, bunnies can live happy lives without the company of another bunny as long as they are given ample attention from their owners.
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Envy & Sunny Jim
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The first major obstacle in bonding rabbits is the gosh darn pesky hormones that cause them to be incredibly territorial and eager to mount anything of remotely spherical shape.  I do not recommend even attempting to bond your rabbits until they are both spayed/neutered and given 4-6 weeks for the hormones to subside and balance. 
The exceptions would be two sisters from the same litter who are likely to be already bonded (though they may become territorial if not spayed promptly when they mature) or for a senior/baby pair where the senior is already fixed and the baby showing no interest in displaying dominance or territorial behaviors.  Even if you have two young rabbits who appear bonded, things can quickly go south when the hormones begin to influence behavior, and then separation and re-bonding may be necessary.  This is why adopting two bunnies at once can prove especially tricky.  Does this sound complicated yet?  We're only getting started!
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Clementine & Penelope (photo by Michelle C.)
The following is a list of tips and tricks to help facilitate bonding between rabbits.  This information has been complied through my own experience and research as well as advice provided by those who have adopted bunnies from me.  I do wish to recognize Michelle C. for her particularly in-depth explanation of how she bonded her initially reluctant female duo using patience and a bathtub.  You read correctly.  Rub-a-dub-dub.  Several of the following tips are what worked for Michelle's rabbits.  Notice Clementine's relaxed body language (lying down, ears not held back), which shows that she is comfortable sharing her current space. 

Rabbit Bonding: Tips & Tricks

  • Do not attempt to bond two unaltered rabbits.  Injuries can happen quickly.
  • DO NOT RUSH bonding.  It may take a week, or it may take many months.  Plan on the latter.
  • Designate a neutral territory for playdates.  Keep the area small with no nooks or crannies that the bunnies could become cornered during a disagreement.  Make sure you are in close proximity at all times. 
The following photos illustrate what can happen in a split-second when bunnies begin to fight.  These two females had previously grown up playing together nicely until hormones came into play.
Rabbit ear with bite from another rabbit.
Rabbit with permanent ear damage from fighting with another female.
  • A bathtub is often a great neutral territory with easy access for you (as the referee of these playdates).  The bunnies have some traction but not enough to encourage charging and running at one another.  Other potentially neutral bonding areas might include a small area in a kitchen or laundry room with tile/vinyl/wood flooring (not carpet).   
  • Begin with brief 5-15 minute playdates.  A bit of mounting is to be expected to establish the hierarchy, but do not permit growling, biting, charging, or other violent actions.  Gloves might be a good idea until you are certain how your bunnies will react. 
  • Slowly increase the length of the playdates as behavior permits.  Keep them in this same neutral territory for their rendezvous until they are able to share the area peacefully for 30-60 minutes a day for at least a week (or longer).  Rushing to the next step any sooner can quickly ruin any progress they have made.
  • Ending the sessions on a positive note with a special treat like hay, clover, oats, parsley, cilantro, or other leafy green helps the bunnies to associate one another with a positive connotation.  Michelle C. suggests placing the bunnies with heads close to one another and gently rubbing the bunnies' heads as if they are being groomed by one another (hopefully they think this is what's happening).
  • Thoroughly clean all surfaces when moving the bunnies to their permanent play area.  Any lingering bunny scent can quickly initiate territorial behavior and ruin any bonding progress.  A dilution of vinegar/baking soda in a spray bottle (with optional drops of lemon or peppermint essential oils) makes a great non-toxic cleaner. 
  • Carefully monitor all play sessions until the bunnies have consistently demonstrated peaceful interactions.  Keep their area small and manageable until they can be trusted together. 
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Emmy & Snowflake
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Anna, Ruby, & Fizz Pop
 Is bonding rabbits always successful?  No.  But the majority of failures are due to giving up too soon and rushing the process or bonding attempts in a non-neutral area.  Some bunnies just click and bond nearly instantaneously, such as with Mochi and Mimi below (photo from owner Eleanor M.).  Mochi was neutered and immediately took to Mimi when she joined him when she was about two months of age (and was later spayed).  The three does (Anna, Ruby, & Fizz Pop) pictured above were not spayed but played together nicely in neutral territory since they grew up together.  Senior doe Emmy & young Snowflake (also a female) got along well because Emmy was incredibly mellow and Snowflake was very young.  They did not share living quarters, as this would have created territorial problems in unspayed rabbits.  These blissful interaction would undoubtedly not last with the hormones in play, but it is further evidence that some bunnies have less aggression and territorial instinct than others.  Mothers and their female babies are often great options for bonding as well as two sisters from the same litter.  Bucks (males) have the most tendency to fight, but I have seen bonds form, especially with two brothers (though separation until neutering is necessary).  Buck/doe combinations are also great, but it is usually best to have one spayed/neutered and then acquire a second bunny (younger is better unless the new bunny is already spayed/neutered). 
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Mochi & Mimi (photo by Eleanor M.)
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Mable & Magnolia. Mable had no problem sharing her space with her daughter but is the one who bit the ear of the rabbit shown previously.
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Are Bunnies Good Pets for Children?

7/10/2017

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This is a loaded question, and the answer really depends on a multitude of factors.  I will say, however, that one of the biggest mistakes parents can do regarding first pets is to make a hasty decision to buy a bunny for their young children (toddler/preschool/young elementary age), especially when they assure me, "My child is ready to learn responsibility."  Well, what happens a few weeks into the "responsibility lesson" when your child loses interest or discovers that bunnies don't like held or carried like a kitten might tolerate?  Someone else ends up taking over the responsibility, and the bunny may end up neglected, seen as a nuisance, or even worse, surrendered to a shelter.

I am certainly not here to point fingers, as I have been in this situation myself when purchasing my first Holland lop as a 4-H project for my 9-year-old son and a second bunny for my 6-year-old son.  Of course, they loved their bunnies and did an excellent job providing daily care - for a while.  Soon, however, school began again, and getting up ten minutes early for morning feeding/cleaning and finding time for daily interaction became an issue for them.  Eventually, we ended up selling both bunnies to new homes (at a monetary loss of course) and learning an important lesson: bunnies require a lot of time and effort and need to be a family decision - and that children sometimes aren't ready for additional responsibility.  Household chores are a much better way to teach such a quality. 

Before getting your child a pet, it's a wise idea to ask your child to do a simple chore daily for a couple weeks with only minimal reminders (such as feeding a fish, filling a bird feeder, or watering a plant - where another living thing depends on their responsible actions).  You'll know pretty quickly whether they're ready for their own pet, and if not, then start with something smaller and simpler like a hamster, guinea pig, or even a cat - unless your entire household is on board with getting a bunny FOR THE FAMILY.
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What Should I Know Before Getting My Child a Bunny?

  1. Bunnies can live 8-10 years.  Yep, it's a big commitment (time and money).
  2. Rabbits hate to be carried and sometimes even held.  They might scramble if held, which can scare small children.  You have to be very patient and interact with a bunny on its terms but not be afraid to show gentle dominance. 
  3. An indoor bunny really needs spayed/neutered to calm hormones that may cause unpleasant behaviors.  This can be a $300+ expense, but your family can truly bond with an indoor bunny unlike one kept in a garage or outdoors. 
  4. Bunnies can tolerate cold way better than heat/sunshine/humidity.  Outdoor playtime should be limited to mild days (roughly 45-75 degrees) with ample shade provided in summer.
  5. Bunnies chew and poop - a lot.  They are easy to litter train but usually leave dry poo balls around the house unless spayed/neutered.  Provide plenty of hay, cardboard boxes, and bunny toys for chewing, and bunny-proof the house (wires!).
  6. Bunnies don't need vaccinations but tend to have delicate digestive systems.  They can't throw up hairballs like cats so need to spend their day eating hay and pellets to keep their gut moving.  A bunny who stops eating and is hunched over like a meatloaf is a sick bunny who needs to see a bunny veterinarian immediately. 
  7. A happy bunny is one who gets daily exercise and attention.  Most bunnies are extremely energetic and need to run, jump, and play as often as possible.  They aren't pets to be stuck in tiny cages and left alone - you will have a sad, frustrated bunny who may act out.  A large indoor cage and play room/exercise pen is suggested.  Outdoor play isn't necessary if indoor exercise is provided.
  8. Your rabbit doesn't NEED a companion other than you, but please don't consider a second bunny until the first is spayed/neutered and well adjusted.  Two bunnies may not bond and could need to be housed separately, and you definitely don't want to try bonding two hormonal, non-altered rabbits unless they are sibling does who have grown up together (but they will likely fight eventually if not spayed). 
  9. Bunnies are smart.  You can teach them tricks, litter train them, and be outsmarted by them.  Some bunnies are excellent escape artists, so be on your toes! 
  10. Most bunnies require minimal maintenance: daily brushing when molting, nail trimming every 4-6 weeks, keeping their cage clean daily, and checking that they are eating/drinking daily.  Wrap your bunny in a towel (like a bunny burrito) for nail trimming and offer a treat afterwards.  They still will likely hate it, but it's a job that needs done either by you or your vet.
  11. Your bunny will have a unique personality, and it's not cut and dry to say you should get a buck or a doe.  It really depends on the bunny, the interaction you provide, and whether you spay/neuter.  Bunny hormones are the culprit in most situations where bunny owners are frustrated and insist their bunny is unloving.  I can't say it enough - spay or neuter your bunny to help it be the sweetest pet possible!  It can help protect does against bunny cancers as well.  It is a worthwhile investment.
  12. Bunnies are prey animals and don't always get along with dogs.  If you have gentle dogs, then a baby bunny is a better choice than an adult bunny who has never been around dogs.  Give your bunny plenty of places to hide and feel safe, and be patient.
  13. Feed your bunny the best food/hay you can afford.  Pet store foods and hay are usually not fresh, and the pellets are often made with soy, wheat, corn, sweeteners, and other cheap fillers that aren't healthy.  Remember, bunnies have sensitive digestive systems.  Invest in a healthy food like Sherwood pellets and pesticide-free fresh hay like Farmer Dave's.  Your bunny will thank you! 
  14. A pet bunny requires daily time and supervision during free-roaming playtime.  If you have a hectic schedule, a multitude of extracurricular activities, or vacation frequently, then a bunny may not be the right pet for you.
  15. Do your research!  This is a big decision to be carefully considered by everyone affected.  Check out our Bunny Care page for more bunny information. 
Ultimately, the answer is YES, bunnies CAN be good pets for children - in the correct situations.  I generally don't recommend that children under 10 have a rabbit as a pet.  It takes maturity to understand how to interact with and care for a bunny.  Unless you are content with ending up as the sole caregiver for the bunny and can provide daily attention and exercise, then please carefully reconsider your pet choice.  :)
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    WeLcOmE!
    Hook's Hollands is a small hobby rabbitry on our Ohio farm and is operated by me (Diane) with the help of my family.  We have a small herd of Holland Lop rabbits and focus on raising colorful bunnies with the best type and temperament possible.
    This blog serves to spotlight various bunny care topics and share a bit about my experiences raising bunnies.

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