Tips for Bonding Rabbits

Unless your project is gluing marshmallow Peep bunnies together, then your task of bonding rabbits is undoubtedly going to require significant persistence, consistency, and patience.  If you are constricted by a tight schedule or are faint of heart, then having a single bunny might be of preference.  And yes, bunnies can live happy lives without the company of another bunny as long as they are given ample attention from their owners.

Envy & Sunny Jim

The first major obstacle in bonding rabbits is the gosh darn pesky hormones that cause them to be incredibly territorial and eager to mount anything of remotely spherical shape.  I do not recommend even attempting to bond your rabbits until they are both spayed/neutered and given 4-6 weeks for the hormones to subside and balance. 

The exceptions would be two sisters from the same litter who are likely to be already bonded (though they may become territorial if not spayed promptly when they mature) or for a senior/baby pair where the senior is already fixed and the baby showing no interest in displaying dominance or territorial behaviors.  Even if you have two young rabbits who appear bonded, things can quickly go south when the hormones begin to influence behavior, and then separation and re-bonding may be necessary.  This is why adopting two bunnies at once can prove especially tricky.  Does this sound complicated yet?  We're only getting started!

Clementine & Penelope (photo by Michelle C.)

The following is a list of tips and tricks to help facilitate bonding between rabbits.  This information has been complied through my own experience and research as well as advice provided by those who have adopted bunnies from me.  I do wish to recognize Michelle C. for her particularly in-depth explanation of how she bonded her initially reluctant female duo using patience and a bathtub.  You read correctly.  Rub-a-dub-dub.  Several of the following tips are what worked for Michelle's rabbits.  Notice Clementine's relaxed body language (lying down, ears not held back), which shows that she is comfortable sharing her current space. 

Rabbit Bonding: Tips & Tricks

• Do not attempt to bond two unaltered rabbits.  Injuries can happen quickly.
• DO NOT RUSH bonding.  It may take a week, or it may take many months.  Plan on the latter.
• Designate a neutral territory for playdates.  Keep the area small with no nooks or crannies that the bunnies could become cornered during a disagreement.  Make sure you are in close proximity at all times. 
  

The following photos illustrate what can happen in a split-second when bunnies begin to fight.  These two females had previously grown up playing together nicely until hormones came into play.

Rabbit ear with bite from another rabbit.

Rabbit with permanent ear damage from fighting with another female.

• A bathtub is often a great neutral territory with easy access for you (as the referee of these playdates).  The bunnies have some traction but not enough to encourage charging and running at one another.  Other potentially neutral bonding areas might include a small area in a kitchen or laundry room with tile/vinyl/wood flooring (not carpet).   
• Begin with brief 5-15 minute playdates.  A bit of mounting is to be expected to establish the hierarchy, but do not permit growling, biting, charging, or other violent actions.  Gloves might be a good idea until you are certain how your bunnies will react. 
  
• Slowly increase the length of the playdates as behavior permits.  Keep them in this same neutral territory for their rendezvous until they are able to share the area peacefully for 30-60 minutes a day for at least a week (or longer).  Rushing to the next step any sooner can quickly ruin any progress they have made.
• Ending the sessions on a positive note with a special treat like hay, clover, oats, parsley, cilantro, or other leafy green helps the bunnies to associate one another with a positive connotation.  Michelle C. suggests placing the bunnies with heads close to one another and gently rubbing the bunnies' heads as if they are being groomed by one another (hopefully they think this is what's happening).
  
• Thoroughly clean all surfaces when moving the bunnies to their permanent play area.  Any lingering bunny scent can quickly initiate territorial behavior and ruin any bonding progress.  A dilution of vinegar/baking soda in a spray bottle (with optional drops of lemon or peppermint essential oils) makes a great non-toxic cleaner. 
  
• Carefully monitor all play sessions until the bunnies have consistently demonstrated peaceful interactions.  Keep their area small and manageable until they can be trusted together. 
  

Emmy & Snowflake

Anna, Ruby, & Fizz Pop

 Is bonding rabbits always successful?  No.  But the majority of failures are due to giving up too soon and rushing the process or bonding attempts in a non-neutral area.  Some bunnies just click and bond nearly instantaneously, such as with Mochi and Mimi below (photo from owner Eleanor M.).  Mochi was neutered and immediately took to Mimi when she joined him when she was about two months of age (and was later spayed).  The three does (Anna, Ruby, & Fizz Pop) pictured above were not spayed but played together nicely in neutral territory since they grew up together.  Senior doe Emmy & young Snowflake (also a female) got along well because Emmy was incredibly mellow and Snowflake was very young.  They did not share living quarters, as this would have created territorial problems in unspayed rabbits.  These blissful interaction would undoubtedly not last with the hormones in play, but it is further evidence that some bunnies have less aggression and territorial instinct than others.  Mothers and their female babies are often great options for bonding as well as two sisters from the same litter.  Bucks (males) have the most tendency to fight, but I have seen bonds form, especially with two brothers (though separation until neutering is necessary).  Buck/doe combinations are also great, but it is usually best to have one spayed/neutered and then acquire a second bunny (younger is better unless the new bunny is already spayed/neutered). 

Mochi & Mimi (photo by Eleanor M.)

Mable & Magnolia. Mable had no problem sharing her space with her daughter but is the one who bit the ear of the rabbit shown previously.